How to Read a Knitting Pattern: A Plain-English Decoder

A knitting pattern looks like it was written by an engineer who never expected anyone to read it, but it's actually just compressed instructions. The compression makes them dense; it doesn't make them complicated. Once you know the abbreviations and three pieces of punctuation, every pattern reads as plainly as a recipe.

This guide walks through the conventions you'll encounter in any pattern. By the end, "Row 5: K2, *yo, k2tog; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. (32 sts)" should read as one continuous instruction, not a puzzle.

The structure every pattern follows

Six parts in roughly this order:

The header. Designer, finished dimensions, skill level, copyright info.

Materials. Yarn (brand, weight, color, yardage), needle size, notions (stitch markers, tapestry needle, etc.).

Gauge. Something like "20 sts and 28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette on US 6 needles."

Abbreviations. A key for the shorthand the pattern uses.

Pattern notes. Special techniques, cast-on methods, anything unusual.

The pattern itself. Row-by-row or round-by-round instructions, plus finishing.

If a pattern is missing gauge or abbreviations, it's either old or poorly written. You can still work it; you just have to fill in blanks.

The abbreviations

The 16 you'll see in 90% of patterns:

Abbreviation	Meaning
k	knit
p	purl
st / sts	stitch / stitches
RS / WS	right side / wrong side
yo	yarn over (creates an intentional hole; also an increase)
k2tog	knit two stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
p2tog	purl two stitches together (decrease on the purl side)
ssk	slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
M1	make one (lift-the-bar increase)
kfb	knit in front and back of stitch (increase)
sl	slip a stitch from the left needle to the right without working it
pm / sm	place marker / slip marker
rnd	round (when working in the round on circular needles)
BO / CO	bind off / cast on
rep	repeat
inc / dec	increase / decrease

A few more you'll meet soon:

Abbreviation	Meaning
BLO / FLO	back loop only / front loop only
w&t	wrap and turn (short-row technique)
psso	pass slipped stitch over
tbl	through the back loop

Every well-written pattern includes its own abbreviations key. Read it before starting.

The punctuation

Three marks do most of the work.

*Asterisks * and "rep from " mark a section to repeat.

"*K2, p2; rep from * to end" means knit 2, purl 2, then keep doing that across the row.

"*K2, p2; rep from * 5 more times" means do the K2-P2 sequence 5 more times after the first (6 total).

Brackets [ ] and parentheses ( ) group instructions, often inside asterisk repeats.

"[K1, yo] 4 times" means do the K1-YO pair 4 times.

"K to last 3 sts, ssk, k1" means knit until 3 stitches remain, ssk, then knit the last 1.

Parentheses also indicate sizes. This is where most beginners get lost.

"CO 60 (66, 72, 78) sts" means cast on 60 stitches for the smallest size, 66 for the next, 72 for the next, and 78 for the largest. Pick your size and use that number throughout the pattern.

"Work in stockinette for 6 (7, 8, 9) inches" works the same way.

Many knitters highlight their size in every parenthesis before starting the pattern. Worth the 90 seconds.

Stitch counts in parentheses at end of row are checkpoints.

"Row 12: K2, M1, k to last 2 sts, M1, k2. (22 sts)" means after this row you should have 22 stitches. Count.

How to read a real row

Take this line:

"Row 5: K2, *yo, k2tog; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. (32 sts)"

Decoded:

1. Knit 2 stitches.
2. Asterisk marker. The repeat starts here.
3. Yarn over, then knit 2 together. (The yo adds a stitch; the k2tog removes one. Net zero, but a hole appears.)
4. End-of-repeat marker. Go back to the asterisk and do the yo-k2tog pair again. Keep doing it until 2 stitches remain.
5. Knit the last 2 stitches.
6. Count. You should have 32 stitches.

That row is a lace eyelet. Most lace knitting is built from this pattern of paired increase-decrease.

Gauge, and why it matters

Gauge is the count of stitches and rows that fit in a four-inch (10 cm) square. Patterns specify it because the size of the finished item depends on it.

For non-fitted projects (scarves, blankets, washcloths), gauge is forgiving. Off by 10% and your scarf is 10% wider. Fine.

For fitted projects (sweaters, hats, socks), gauge is non-negotiable. Off by 10% and your sweater fits 10% too tight or too loose, which is the difference between wearable and not.

How to check:

1. Knit a swatch in the pattern's stitch and yarn. At least 6 inches square so you can measure inside the edges (which can lie).
2. Wash and block the swatch if the pattern says to.
3. Lay it flat without stretching.
4. Count stitches across a 4-inch span and rows across a 4-inch span.
5. Compare to the pattern's stated gauge.

Too many stitches per 4 inches: gauge is tight, go up a needle size. Too few: gauge is loose, go down a needle size. Re-swatch. Don't start the project until your gauge matches.

Most knitters skip swatching, ruin one fitted project, and never skip swatching again. Take the lesson without paying for it.

Charts

Many patterns use charts (grids of symbols) for lace, cables, and colorwork. Charts are usually easier to follow than written instructions once you can read them.

Three rules cover most chart reading:

1. Read from the bottom up.
2. Read right-to-left on right-side rows, left-to-right on wrong-side rows. (Flat knitting only. When working in the round, always right-to-left.)
3. Each square is one stitch. The symbol tells you what kind of stitch.

The chart has a key explaining its symbols. Common ones: blank square or dot for knit, dash for purl, circle for yarn over, slash for k2tog, backslash for ssk. The pattern's key always wins over conventions, though.

Sizing and schematics

Patterns for fitted garments include multiple sizes in parentheses, as covered above. They also usually include a schematic: a small line drawing of the finished garment with measurements at every key point.

Use the schematic. Measure a garment you already own that fits well, and compare its dimensions to the schematic for your chosen size. If the schematic says the chest is 38 inches and you own a 36-inch shirt that fits great, you might want to size down. Five minutes with a tape measure saves you 40 hours of knitting something that doesn't fit.

A pattern to read for practice

Pick a beginner-friendly pattern with a small repeat and read it start-to-finish without knitting it. The reading practice locks in the conventions faster than any guide.

Jasmine Scarf

Find this pattern on HoneyBee

Purl Soho. Worsted weight, three-row pattern repeat, the right pattern to use as a reading exercise. Short enough to read in one sitting, and the seed-stitch-style repeat demonstrates how asterisks and stitch-count checkpoints work without being so complex that you lose the thread. Read it, then make it.

FAQ

What if my pattern uses an abbreviation I don't recognize?

Check the pattern's own abbreviations key first. If it's not there, search the abbreviation plus "knitting" online. Standardized abbreviations all resolve quickly. If a designer uses something bespoke, the pattern should explain it in the notes.

What does "work even" mean?

Continue in pattern without increases or decreases. Used after a shaping section: "Work even for 4 inches" means knit normally for 4 inches without changing the stitch count.

My finished item is bigger or smaller than the pattern says.

Gauge mismatch. Re-read the gauge section above. Next time, swatch and adjust needle size before starting.

Related guides

• How to Knit for Beginners
• How to Read a Crochet Pattern
• Knitting vs Crochet
• Free Knitting Patterns for Beginners

For yarn weight standards and conversions, the Craft Yarn Council's yarn weight system is the universal reference.

Read one pattern start-to-finish before knitting your next thing. The pattern after that one takes half the time to decode.